Summer recipes: authentic fish tacos, tomato and watermelon salad, and more - The Boston Globe (2024)

Makes 4 to 6 servings

At Casa Jacaranda cooking school in Mexico City, Jorge Fitz and Beto Estúa showed us how to make delicious fish tacos that are not only quick and easy to pull together, but also a feast for the eyes. Snapper, marinated in a blend of citrus juice, guajillo chilies, aromatics, and achiote paste, was quickly sautéed before being tucked into tortillas and garnished with a savory-sweet pineapple-based salsa and fresh cilantro. We adapted their recipe, opting instead to broil the marinated fish, as we found that the intense heat produces delicious charring with minimal fuss and cleanup.

For the salsa, we hew closely to theirs, but add habanero chili for a touch of fruity heat that complements the pineapple (we add habanero to the fish marinade, too).

Annatto paste is typically sold in small bricks. If you can’t find it, a good substitute can be made by stirring together 1½ tablespoons sweet paprika, ½ teaspoon ground cumin, ¼ teaspoon granulated garlic, ¼ teaspoon dried oregano, ƒ teaspoon kosher salt, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar to form a stiff paste. Use in place of the paste called for in the recipe.

When marinating the fish, stay away from aluminum baking pans or any vessels made of reactive metal. Rather, use a glass or ceramic pie plate or a wide, shallow stainless-steel bowl to ensure the marinade’s acidity does not react with the material and produce “off” flavors. The acidity also affects the texture of the fish, so don’t marinate the fillets for longer than a couple of hours.

¾ ounce guajillo chilies (4 medium), stemmed and seeded

1 medium white onion, ½ roughly chopped, ½ finely chopped

2 habanero chilies, stemmed and seeded, 1 left whole, 1 finely chopped

¼ cup orange juice

¼ cup lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve

5⁄8 ounce achiote paste (2 tablespoons grated on the small holes of a box grater; see headnote)

2 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 tablespoon oregano, preferably Mexican oregano

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1½ pounds skinless snapper or mahi mahi fillets

2 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil

1½ cups chopped fresh pineapple (½-inch chunks)

1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped

1 large celery stalk, finely chopped

½ cup lightly packed cilantro, chopped

8 to 12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed

In a 12-inch skillet set over medium heat, toast the guajillo chilies, turning occasionally with tongs, until fragrant and just a shade darker in color, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and cool, then break the pods into smaller pieces, discarding any remaining seeds; reserve the skillet.

In a blender, combine the guajillo chilies, the roughly chopped onion, the whole habanero, and the orange juice, lime juice, achiote paste, garlic, oregano, cumin, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Puree until smooth, about 40 seconds, scraping the blender jar as needed.

Place the fish in a 9-inch glass or ceramic pie plate or similar nonreactive dish. Add the puree, then turn the fillets to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, in the same skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until it shimmers. Add the pineapple and ½ teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the finely chopped onion, and the carrot, celery, and finely chopped habanero; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and beginning to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl; set aside until ready to serve.

Heat the broiler with a rack about 4 inches from the element. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and mist the foil with cooking spray. Place the fish skin side down on the baking sheet in a single layer, leaving the marinade on the fillets. Broil until the fish is well charred on top and the flesh flakes easily, 5 to 9 minutes.

Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the fish to a cutting board. Cut each fillet crosswise into 1-inch pieces, then transfer to a platter. To serve, put the lime wedges and cilantro in small bowls. Serve the fish with the tortillas, salsa, and (optional) garnishes for making tacos.

Grilled Garlic-Herb Shrimp

Makes 4 servings

A simple puree of fresh herbs, garlic, and olive oil does double duty in this recipe. It first coats the uncooked shrimp as a quick marinade. Then, with a splash of lemon juice stirred in, it’s drizzled on as a sauce after cooking. Be sure to pat the shrimp dry before coating them with the herb puree; too much moisture will prevent it from clinging.

One large bunch or “clamshell” container of tarragon should yield the amount of tarragon leaves needed for this recipe.

You can serve the shrimp on the skewers with crusty bread and a vegetable side, or slide them off the skewers and add them to grain or leafy green salads.

1½ pounds jumbo shrimp (21/25 per pound), peeled, deveined, and patted dry

1 cup lightly packed fresh basil

1⁄3 cup lightly packed fresh tarragon

3 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

Thread the shrimp onto eight 8- to 10-inch metal skewers, dividing them evenly; skewer each shrimp in a C shape, piercing through 2 points. Place the skewers on a rimmed baking sheet or in a large baking dish.

In a blender, combine the basil, tarragon, garlic, lemon zest, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Pulse until chopped. Scrape down the sides, add the oil, and puree until bright green and almost smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl.

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney filled ¾ full of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents and the lid vent. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate.

In another small bowl, stir together ½ cup of the herb puree and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, then slather onto the shrimp, coating both sides. Grill the skewers until the shrimp turn opaque and are lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until the shrimp are just opaque, about another 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer the skewers to a serving platter. Stir the lemon juice into the remaining herb puree and drizzle over the shrimp.

Tomato and Watermelon Salad With Basil and Goat Cheese

Makes 4 servings

This salad is perfect for summer, when tomatoes and melons are at their peak. The sweet fruit mingles with savory shallot, which has its pungency tempered by a short soak in white balsamic vinegar. Fresh basil (or mint) adds color and herbal notes, and creamy, tangy cheese balances with its saltiness.

2 cups (about 8 ounces) 1-inch cubes watermelon or honeydew

2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into rough 1-inch chunks

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

¼ cup white balsamic vinegar

1 medium shallot, sliced into thin rings

1 cup lightly packed fresh basil or mint, torn if large

Extra virgin olive oil, to serve

2 ounces fresh goat cheese or feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)

In a colander, toss the melon and tomatoes with ½ teaspoon salt; set aside. In a large, bowl combine the vinegar and shallot, then let stand for 10 minutes. Pour off and discard the vinegar, then add the melon-tomato mixture and basil to the bowl. Drizzle with oil and toss, then season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the goat cheese.

Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.